Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America — tango, steak, Malbec, and European architecture define Argentina's passionate capital.
Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America -- tango, steak, Malbec wine, and European architecture define Argentina's passionate capital. La Boca's colorful houses of sheet metal painted in bright hues, Recoleta's ornate cemetery where Eva Peron rests, and San Telmo's Sunday antiques market showcase a city where every barrio has a distinct personality. The city's elegant French and Italian architecture from the late 19th century, wide boulevards modeled after Paris, and a nightlife that starts at midnight make Buenos Aires one of South America's most captivating cities.
March through May and September through November offer comfortable autumn and spring temperatures around 15-25 degrees C. Summer (December-February) is hot and humid at 25-35 degrees C with many locals on vacation. Winter (June-August) is mild at 10-15 degrees C with cheapest flights. Tango festivals peak in August. The Buenos Aires International Book Fair in April-May is the largest Spanish-language literary event. Carnival (February) is celebrated with less intensity than in Brazil.
Aerolineas Argentinas operates from Ezeiza with domestic and international routes covering South America, North America, and Europe. LATAM connects via Santiago and Sao Paulo. American, Delta, and United serve Buenos Aires from US hubs. Iberia, Air France, British Airways, and KLM offer European connections. Qatar Airways connects via Doha for Asian routes. Copa connects via Panama City. Avianca connects via Bogota. Sky Airline provides budget regional options.
Ezeiza International Airport (EZE) is 35 km from the city center with bus and taxi connections taking 45-60 minutes. Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) handles domestic and regional flights just 7 km from downtown in Palermo. Always check which airport you are using -- they serve completely different purposes. Taxis from EZE to the city center cost 3,000-5,000 ARS (about $25 USD at blue dollar rate). The Manuel Tienda Leon bus service connects the airport to downtown.
Buenos Aires is remarkably affordable for Western travelers due to the blue dollar exchange rate -- a steak dinner with wine costs under USD. The Subte (subway) costs under .30 per ride, one of the cheapest in the world. Free tango shows at San Telmo's Plaza Dorrego on Sundays. The Recoleta Cemetery is free and fascinating with ornate mausoleums. Exchange dollars at cuevas (informal exchanges) for the blue rate which is often 40-80% better than the official rate. Use Western Union for a legal alternative to cuevas.
Buenos Aires has the Subte (subway) with six lines (A, B, C, D, E, H) covering the city since 1913, making it the oldest subway in Latin America. Single fares cost 80 ARS (about .10) -- one of the cheapest in the world. Buses (colectivos) cover every corner of the city with fares around 70 ARS. The SUBE card is required and works on both Subte and buses. Buenos Aires is very walkable in central areas -- Recoleta to San Telmo is about 3 km. Uber and Cabify operate widely. Taxis are affordable with fares from 500-1500 ARS for central trips. The Ecobici bike-sharing program is free for residents and tourists after registering. The city is laid out in a grid pattern making navigation straightforward. Sunday streets in Palermo are closed to traffic for cycling and walking.
Palermo offers the trendiest area with parks, boutiques, and restaurants with boutique hotels from $50-120 USD per night. Recoleta provides elegant Parisian-style luxury with high-end hotels from $70-150 USD. San Telmo offers bohemian charm near the antique market with budget hotels from $30-60 USD. Microcentro is the downtown area near the Obelisk with hotels from $40-80 USD. Budget travelers check hostels in Palermo and San Telmo from $5-20 USD.